In
a new
book,
historian
Robert
Grenville
explores
the
haunting
beauty
of
nature
reclaiming
some of
history’s
most
notorious
sites
B-52 area storage, Davis-Monthan AFB, Tucson, Arizona, USA
By Jennifer Billock smithsonianmag.com
The Cold
War, or
the “war
that
wasn’t,”
lasted
from
1947 to
1991.
The two
main
powers,
the
United
States
and the
USSR,
never
actually
attacked
each
other—instead,
they
flexed
their
muscles
to
intimidate
one
another,
causing
events
like the
arms
race and
the
space
race,
and
spurring
proxy
wars
like the
Vietnam
War and
the
Korean
War.
Nevertheless,
the two
countries
prepared
themselves
for an
eventual
battle,
one that
never
happened.
Historian
and
author
Robert
Grenville
has
immortalized
some
now-deserted
sites of
the
conflict
in his
new
book,
Abandoned
Cold War
Places.
In it,
he
compiles
photographs
of
places
built
for or
touched
by the
war,
like an
aircraft
graveyard
and
decaying
military
housing.
“The
book is
a
curated
tour of
the
detritus
left
behind
by both
sides
around
the
world
during
the Cold
War—almost
half of
the
twentieth
century,”
Grenville
says.
“The
idea was
to
convey
an
impression
of the
scale of
the
confrontation
and the
legacy
that
endures
to this
day.”
Smithsonian
magazine
interviewed
Grenville
about
the
book,
the most
striking
places
and
images,
and the
tendency
for
sites
like
these to
become
tourist
attractions.
What was your motivation for creating this book?
I wanted to look at the physical legacy of the stand-off between these two power blocs. I grew up during the last few decades of the Cold War and that had a great impact on me. I remember seeing the pagodas in the misty distance at Orford Ness on England’s east coast and wondering what might be taking place inside.
What is it like to visit Cold War sites?
Cold War sites I’ve visited always have a certain atmosphere, a sense of the history that possesses even the most ordinary objects. With some of the less accessible sites, you get the strong sense that someone has just left the room to make coffee, and could at any moment walk back through the door. They are like time capsules. A good example is the image in the book showing a 1981 Russian newspaper pinned to a door, describing the events in the Soviet Congress that mentioned Mikhail Gorbachev. It is something to think about who might have pinned that up, and why. Where might they be now?
Abandoned
Cold War
Places:
Nuclear
Bunkers,
Submarine
Bases,
Missile
Silos,
Airfields
and
Listening
Posts
from the
World's
Most
Secretive
Conflict
On the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, this fascinating visual history explores the relics abandoned when the Cold War ended.
In your opinion, what is the most interesting site in the book?
I find the bunker built for President Kennedy on Peanut Island in Florida to be fascinating. It was there for use if war was declared while he was at Palm Beach with his family. It’s believed that he never visited before his assassination, but the Presidential seal still sits on the floor ready for his arrival, even though the bunker is now decommissioned and declassified.
Could you share some of the compelling stories behind the sites?
I’ve
always
been
fascinated
by what
happens
to
aircraft
when
they
reach
their
end of
life,
and the
U.S. Air
Force
has
stored
obsolete
aircraft
for
years in
perfect
dry
conditions
in the
Arizona
desert
that
keeps
the
aircraft
looking
ready to
fly. The
fact
that the
U.S.
recently
rescued
a former
B-52
bomber
from
this
scrapyard
and
brought
it back
into
active
service—after
it had
been
flown
originally
for some
50 years—is
incredible.
In
theory,
some
modern
U.S.
bomber
pilots
could be
flying
the same
actual
aircraft
their
grandfathers
flew,
albeit
much
updated.
Another
favorite
of mine
is the
bunker
built at
the
Greenbrier
Hotel in
White
Sulphur
Springs
for the
House of
Representatives.
It stood
ready
for 30
years,
for
which
the U.S.
government
paid the
hotel a
rent of
$25,000
a year,
until a
Washington
Post
journalist
stumbled
upon its
existence
in 1992
and it
had to
be
decommissioned.
Some of
the
sites
featured
are now
not
abandoned,
but have
been
repurposed,
such as
the
former
base at
RAF
Upper
Heyford
in
England
used for
shooting
Hollywood
films.
Wonder
Woman
was
filmed
there,
for
example.
Others
will
necessarily
remain
without
human
habitation
for some
time,
ike
Pripyat,
near
Chernobyl,
and the
nuclear
testing
area in
Kazakhstan
that is
especially
haunting,
where so
many
test
devices
were
exploded
over the
years
that the
local
population
was
badly
affected
by
radiation
poisoning.
Some of
the
sites—a
former
naval
base on
Russia's
Pacific
coast
and a
small
Croatian
island
dotted
with
subarine
pens and
nuclear
bunkers—have
become
tourist
attractions.
How do
you feel
about
that?
If
presented
in the
right
way, I
welcome
it. It’s
important
for this
part of
our
history
not to
be
forgotten.
A prime
example
is the
various
sites in
Vietnam
associated
with the
war
there.
The
visitors
they
attract
learn
about
the war
from the
Vietnamese
perspective,
and the
sites’
accessibility
encourages
tourism
to that
part of
the
world.
Why is it important for people to know this history and see these photos?
It’s important to grasp the sheer scale of the Cold War and how far it reached around the globe. It certainly surprised me in working on this book. There’s a rusting tank on a beach in Yemen surrounded by goats, while in another section of the book, you see former U.S. radar buildings sinking into the Arctic ice in Greenland. But, for me, the images themselves have this special kind of beauty, seeing the decay that nature has wrought on these once-immaculate, sophisticated systems and installations.
What is the single biggest takeaway readers should get from the book?
Recent events have raised old, familiar tensions between the great world powers, even if those powers are no longer the same as they were 30 years ago. Most young people have not had to live in the shadow of an immediate threat of nuclear war, and the events of that era, such as the Cuban Missile Crisis, serve as a warning to today’s leaders that a false step can quickly lead to potential catastrophe. I hope that readers might be inspired by the book to pursue their interest in the Cold War further—it is such a fascinating period of history that shaped much of our world today.
All images taken from the book Abandoned Cold War Places by Robert Grenville (ISBN 978- 1-78274-917-2) published by Amber Books Ltd (www.amberbooks.co.uk) and available from bookshops and online booksellers (RRP $29.95).